Twin Oil Any experience with vegetable oil burning engines?
I have been researching vegetable oil burning vehicles
and am considering buying or converting one. Before I make a big
investment I would really like to talk to someone who has a vegetable
oil car in the Twin Cities area. I would like to ask them about how
well they run here in MN and about their set up. And do they really
smell like French fries? Any websites, recommended books, personal
experience, any information will be greatly appreciated.
I currently run Bio Fuel (straight vegetable) in a 1999 Dodge 3500 truck. But all Cummins engines were modified from the factory to run on BioD since around 1992 without any modification.
Biofuel is recognized by both the US Environmental Protection Agency and Department of Energy as an alternative fuel, and qualifies for mandated programs under the Clean Air Act Amendments and the Environmental Protection Act of 1992 (EPAct).
USDA Clears Air with Biofuel: Buses and other diesel-burning vehicles run cleaner if they mix biofuel with regular diesel fuel, said the US Department of Agriculture at a biofuel fuel seminar at a USDA research center.
Conversely most major automotive manufacturers (Chrysler, Ford, and General Motors, etc) recommend the use of bio fuels, and nearly every car manufacturer in the world approves ethanol blends in their warranty coverage.
In fact your probably even driving an ethanol car and didn't even know it.
The trick is finding fuel.
I've been producing biofuel for about 3 years now, it's not extremely difficult. Basically you need general household ingredients, a processor (or still for ethanol) and some used oil. Blend it, let separate, screen and use. I complied a guide a while back to help walk you threw the process step by step, just email me or check out..
http://www.agua-luna.com/guides.html
•1 liter of new vegetable oil, whatever the supermarket sells as cooking oil
•200 ml of methanol, 99+% pure
•lye catalyst -- either potassium hydroxide (KOH) or sodium hydroxide (NaOH)
•blender or mini-processor
•scales accurate to 0.1 grams, preferably less -- 0.01 grams is best
•measuring beakers for methanol and oil
•half-liter translucent white HDPE (#2 plastic) container with bung and screw-on cap
•2 funnels to fit the HDPE container
•2-litre PET bottle (water or soft-drinks bottle) for settling
•two 2-litre PET bottles for washing
•duct tape
•thermometer
Use the "Methoxide the easy way" method -- it's also the safe way. Here's how to do it.
Measure out 200 ml of methanol and pour it into the half-liter HDPE container via the funnel. Methanol also absorbs water from the atmosphere so do it quickly and replace the lid of the methanol container tightly. Don't be too frightened of methanol, if you're working at ordinary room temperature and you keep it at arm's length you won't be exposed to dangerous fumes.
Carefully add the lye to the HDPE container via the second funnel. Replace the bung and the screw on the cap tightly.
Shake the container a few times -- swirl it round rather than shaking it up and down. The mixture gets hot from the reaction. If you swirl it thoroughly for a minute or so five or six times over a period of time the lye will completely dissolve in the methanol, forming sodium methoxide or potassium methoxide. As soon as the liquid is clear with no undissolved particles you can begin the process.
The more you swirl the container the faster the lye will dissolve. With NaOH it can take from overnight to a few hours to as little as half-an-hour with lots of swirling (but don't be impatient, wait for ALL the lye to dissolve). Mixing KOH is much faster, it dissolves in the methanol more easily than NaOH and can be ready for use in 10 minutes.
Using a blender. Use a spare blender you don't need or get a cheap secondhand one -- cheap because it might not last very long, but it will get you going until you build something better.
Check that the blender seals are in good order. Make sure all parts of the blender are clean and dry and that the blender components are tightly fitted.
Pre-heat the oil to 55 deg C (130 deg F) and pour it into the blender.
With the blender still switched off, carefully pour the prepared methoxide from the HDPE container into the oil.
Secure the blender lid tightly and switch on. Lower speeds should be enough. Blend for at least 20 minutes.
Using a mini-processor. Follow the instructions below and improvise where necessary -- there are many ways of building a processor like this.
Proceed with processing as above, maintain temperature at 55 deg C (130 deg F), process for one hour.
www AGUA-LUNA com
Hope this helped, feel free to contact me personally if you have any questions if you’d like assistance in making your first self sufficient steps, I’m willing to walk you step by step threw the process. I’ve written several how-to DIY guides available at www agua-luna com on the subject. I also offer online and on-site workshops, seminars and internships to help others help the environment.
Dan Martin
Alterative Energy / Sustainable Consultant, Living 100% on Alternative & Author of How One Simple Yet Incredibly Powerful Resource Is Transforming The Lives of Regular People From All Over The World... Instantly Elevating Their Income & Lowering Their Debt, While Saving The Environment by Using FREE ENERGY... All With Just One Click of A Mouse...For more info Visit:
www AGUA-LUNA com
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My boyfriend and I just bought a 91 Nissan Sentra Se-r and we were just about to leave to go wash it and he decided to check the oil. When he did we found found out there was no oil in the engine at all. We don't know how long it has been since the oil has been changed, if it had been burned off, or if there is a leak. There is no knock, the car is as fast as it should be...so I was wondering if there really could be any horrible damage? Should we maybe just put some more oil in it or trash the motor?
Also I don't know if this is relevant but the car doesn't overheat either
If the engine is not damaged you were extremely fortunate. Usually running an engine without oil damages it almost beyond repair. Fill the engine to the proper level, then check for leaks while it is idling. Watch for smoke out of the exhaust. If the engine runs right, count yourself lucky, and try to find out where the oil went. There is a reason it was out of oil. NOTE: Keep a close eye on the oil pressure until you are certain there are no leaks or engine damage. Definitely don't trash the engine until you are certain it's not fixable.
Gas Shock Is it easy to fit new GAS shocks to my standard 1992 Rover mini Mayfair?
http://www.hytheperformance.co.uk/mini-shock-absorbers-dampers/set-of-4-2-front-2-rear-gmax-gas-shocks-829260-314261-551506.php these are the shocks i was thinking of getting but don't know if this is a direct replacement or not? some help would be much appreciated.
Yes, direct replacement.
The front dampers are very easy to change, just a 7/16 nut to undo top and bottom. They will probably be seized, so soak them in plus gas or other penetrating fluid first.
The right hand rear is easy, but the left hand rear will require the fuel tank to be moved. make sure it is nearly empty. No need to disconnect any fuel lines, just undo the one bolt that holds the strap and move the tank out of the way.
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Cat with awful gas
actic cat 440 loses power when holding gas?
ok, so i have a arctic cat 440, when ever i hold the gas in one position for about 30 seconds, i lose power and have to feather the gas to continue riding, then again sometimes this wont bother me for a good 15 minutes of riding. what may cause this?
check the air cleaner, my 4- wheeler did that then i cleaned it and now it runs like a top.
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